Saturday, January 26, 2019

last surf of the week, i sneak on in after work. i've been everywhere today, on the western suburbs of sydney, entering new places that have strange names, i'm taken to harris park, eastern creek, arndell park, austra, leppington, we visit places that have have not even been built, vast housing estates and blocks of land, suburbs in the pre construction phase of development, massive holes in the land, vacant spots where trees grew, and i see where the new airport is going to be built and i see the ages creeping out of the future eating the past, and i see the unborn faces of millions crying for space, water and air and i see the global families marching to temples, mosques and citadels  and i see the face of the future is burning cigarettes and coffee, slow time, unemployment, yellow teeth and burnt out eyes and i see the hordes of people living in their symmetry, and i see migratory patterns played out across decades as chess players in city hall make great plans like colonial landlords always do, i see only the death of nature.
however i am talking about the old testament to my friend, explaining it in terms of consciousness, he's interested in the history because he is a sheik, and he has a history to which he shares. 
much later i am back in the water at terrible beach, and i catch one perfect ride. it's taken me a third of the wave to fully tune in to the wave, i'm so surprised by it's might. the rest of it i'm turned on and activated. yeah i have the bliss now. i'm in a captain mission state of mind, surf, play, love. 
in the twilight i discover a new jamaican place, it's called mumbo jumbo's and i think it's going to be my local haunt. i sip a watermelon drink with mint, look down at the waves and listen to a great busker down the street playing some beats, hip hop that grooves along like a funky summer in key largo, i'm all surfed out now. ready to lay under the fan at mission control and meditate upon my predicament.    

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