Monday, December 22, 2014

the summer peaks, the sensual rays, the effortless breach of the great whale. i race to the water, leaping over the washed up weed and the crusted debris, over the layer of flies that hover, into the washing machine chop, dive past the unfurling wave, under the crash and fractal arm, surface from the big blue wet into the big blue dry and all is glory. this is my kingdom, a surfers paradise.

No comments: