Thursday, December 25, 2014

i'm awake at dawn rolling towards the surf, the sun penetrates the day and things are looking good on the beach. no one's there save for the hardcore water people, a man and his dog, a couple of joggers and some hungover homeless person sleeping it off on the bench.
i take the waves, they are big, two meters of low energy, to fat to carry me anywhere far but it's beautifully invigorating. the water crystal clear the sun now beating away any clouds, the ocean wraps itself around me like liquid light from liquid sky,my flesh dissolves, my etheric body spills out and i am everywhere and nowhere, i'm mission in the sun, mission on the beach, i am mission without borders, mission incomplete, i am mission unto thee, mission in the sea, i am mission to every atom as far as the eye can see. 
the contraction into the self, like rubber band yoga, i summon the dawn, suck the light up like a sponge.
these early morning surfs are the best way to start the day. 
my blue fin, aquatic bliss technology, i consider it's curves like i would a woman, longingly besotted, awestruck by beauty. my fin is my god. the waves may explode over me, smashing forth foam and turbulence, white wash the crash and tumble, the explosion of light, the loss of dimension. all is equal in the wave, but when the stars align and i am stateless in zen, i am the wave, i am alive, i breath, i have direction, magnitude and velocity, i am quantum physics. i am an ocean.  

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