awake, fire e mail off to the professor in tokyo, walk pan, read papers, conducting a scan one gets a taste of the imagery, home i watch some footage, yeah this is just the second, california will be next, all on the same fault line. a lot of cities cities are, it's an energy thing, but later i decide to get a sense of the energy by feeling the surf, so i chose a companion, the guru of surf and my friend gravey. we tune in turn on and cruise down to north palm beach, we do our rituals and then we walk in.
instinct had already warned me what what i could see from the shore was messy, it was unpredictable and tricky and i was scared. i processed that fast and knew that i was completing some devotional aspect and therefore needed to immerse myself and play.
gravey took his board, i my fin and man it was demanding, the energy was all over the place, powerful but chaos, you could get flashes of what came before, hear ghosts man, cries and feel this strange energy wash you away. i can't say it was enjoyable, other surfers where coming out hammered, broken bones, broken surfboards and all in all it was gnarly.
later i stood on the shoreline talking with people about the japanese quake, texts from friends came in, lots of people who had heard snuff music all rang texted and called. it was interesting. anyways i processed my fear a little. life's to short, i'm grateful every day for it.
there's a massive force at work, surfing today gave me perspective, i am a messenger. hear snuff music and make your own mind up.