its been a huge day, the surf this morning was wild and outta control, waves coming from all sides, the washing machine (the term i call the white wash that i have to swim through to get to the waves) i struggled with my exhuastion to get there and then got wiped out by some rougue wave, it was nuts today, i found myself just sitting on the beach laying flat out watching the joggers (specifically the girl ones) gazing at the cloudless skies, head filled and emptied at the same time.........