return to terrible beach where the waves are larger than ever, i assess the situation with enhanced vision, many cross currents make treacherous conditions for any water based lifeform. i feel something cruising through my spine, some strange fluidity as my limbs acclimatise and thin webbing appears between fingers and toes. i walk down with my pod strapped to my hand, my technology is beautifully aligned to the surf whatever condition. i step into the cold water, regulate my breathing apparatus with some pranayama exercises as my core temperature adapts for the temperature.
it's difficult, there's some major surf to negotiate, it's wild and reckless, showing no mercy. they crash in from everywhere, sand slipping away under the ferocity and power, nothing holds together. i pass through the chaos out where there is some predictability. vision is obscured by my long hair now, i need to bind it behind me in a pony tail but for now one hand sweeps it back over my head. there's no one out here, a few boats surging up and sown in the rough seas out there. 
my reactions have to be fast, there's no time for land based lethargy in water i'm swifter, my feet kick off and all calculations come together as the wave carries me forwards in speeds that shock the watchers on the shore. not only is it fast but i can feel the wave massage my body, turbulence meets shiatsu. my android muscles pummelled by water. 
'what's that daddy?'
'it looks like a man son.'
'he's going fast'
'yeah he's going very fast. look at him ride that wave.'
'are you sure that's a man.'
'it could be a fish.'
'or an android.'
i turn out of the wave before it breaks, the instinctive knowledge comes through years of practice. but the next wave sneaks up and whacks me over as i can't see due to my hair over my face. it sends me tumbling along, down and up, i grab some air when i can and let my body relax, best not to fight the energy of the ocean. when it's over i right myself and stand upright looking out at the massive waves. drenched in sun, the celestial light of dawn. behold the gods.