big messy waves, the ocean is wild, white water churns and spins me around challenging me even getting beyond, then there's a furious rip pulling me to the left. the last three days have been chaos and although the perfect work up, not much in the way of surfing. it's been ridiculously hot, sweltering and intense, hence my early morning starts at 6am but by 10 I'm back home, siesta and resting. still not 100% well, my cough getting worse each day, my chest doesn't feel right and my breathing slow and laboured, but with a high pollen count, high temperatures and my general exhaustion i just rest and hope for the best.
i get to bed early, maybe 7pm, sleep has been mostly intermittent but last night i slept well. my dreams have been half forged, unravelling as i wake, as my brain attempts to recall them they slip away, it's an awful feeling.
today they say rain is due, and i am hoping rainfall comes as i need my garden watered and an afternoon where the climate is reasonable. it really has been to much but now coffee. it's still early, no plan as yet, just waiting for rain, my face needs a shower, the fan rotates humming above, the simple pleasures of birds calling, a sunday filled with potential and promise. but first coffee.
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