Friday, November 02, 2018

awake early and head down to the ocean where i see the surf conditions are excellent and take advantage, straight in. big waves to, but these are sexy and treat me kindly, oh my god, this is amazing, i'm almost a dolphin. sometimes i ride the fall of the wave, sometimes the crest, i'm all over it, in tune with neptune and back where i belong. my fin is looking beaten and worn, i notice the strap is frayed and there are some chips on the edge, maybe it's time to pick up a new one.

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