in surf i surrender to intuition, my body knows when to catch the wave, my mind eases outside itself in some sort of submission and ecstasy while my body, it's atomic molecular structure and organic synergy understands completely what how and when. it happens outside the rational zones, no technical skill here. it's a perfect relationship, that zen kick and the thunderous massage of water as it pummels against my torso. the horizon dissolves like all dimensions, theres a velocity from everywhere, but it's internal now. years of perfection into some sort of yoga, soar plexus yellow energy like iron mans chest disc, i have achieved mastership of waves by not being master of waves. instinct knows when to turn my fin against the ultimate union of elements, just before the crash, no broken bones, no high impact just a twist and a turn as i land feet first with elegance and beauty. for a beast like me this has to have some consequence.
the rest of the day my orgone energy is high, negative ions radiate from my head like a bulb switched on, magnetised and attracting the watery significance.