it's perfect, waves the length of half the beach, with that ever decreasing straight line, the curve of a fractal, to spiral universe in liquid geometry. i'm there catching these waves as they roll in, one after another, water temperature is less than the day before, maybe one degree. there's clarity to the precision, these waves are not chaotic. 
let me bring you to my theory of surfing. modern quantum physics indicates everything is a particle and a wave, everything, only we can only visually perceive it as one of these. however surfing is the only act in the universe i know where you can experience the true nature of reality, duality ceases to exist and the surfer is particle and wave. the mind undergoes a transformation, the zone can be a range of things but for me it is obliteration of the self. i am in the universe, off the universe, not separate, not captain mission, not a man, not a human, not a being imprisoned by skin. i am truly free. however it has taken a form of yoga to get me there, mental gymnastics, preparation and some breathing, i've explored this zone very well. i've created visualisations based around the charkras, a form of gnosis, the psychic centre opened.
in this space time ceases, the laws of the universe reduce to one thing, a fleeting perfection.
these waves need not be monsters, force comes in many forms and the idea of a wall off water falls into a different type of concept, what is needed are waves that have power and move fast. i've surfed in huge waves and sometimes they are no good. you have to find the wave size that is compatible with your mind, i guess everyone is different and therefore unique but i don't think big wave riding is conducive to the zone i describe. it's a whole different ball game.
so out there three hours pass like no time, the sky is perfect blue, the water clear and clean, i'm in a remote spot, away from the surfboard riders, away from life guards, away from tourists, children and the holiday crowds, this is just me and the sea. our appointment was made and we both upheld our part of the deal. 
some of these waves carry me all the way into the shore, usually i can feel when to turn around, jump off and swim out for the next one. it's not something that i think about, it's auto pilot, second nature. the ocean knows, but it can change fast, go from bliss to fear in the blink of an eye, you have to attune yourself to the ways of oceans, the same way you would a girl you love. and here is the thing, the lovely bit of ancient knowledge the ocean lets you in on, it whispers to you as you're in your zone, it says in it's watery wisdom world weary way, 'just because your on the land don't mean you have to stop riding the waves' and old captain mission knows this, in his old broken bones, in his damaged brain, in his fractal mind, in his purple blood, and in his big old beating but not beaten heart.