morning, early just post dawn and i'm at the beach surfing the perfect waves once more finding my confidence, i've been procrastinating for months but the sudden hot weather and the empty coast has motivated me to act. my house guest lilly gets up very early and does her yoga and by the time she's ready to do her walk i'm ready for a surf so of to the beach we go. as the car turns into the terrigal coastline you get that vista of wave, you can make a quick assessment, i like to process it based around line, form, beauty and light, there's another indefinable quality, intuitive knowledge of the wave, and unless i can feel comfortable about conditions i don't go in. 
you must know your limits, the ocean is a cruel teacher, it takes no prisoners and unless you can read it you are at a disavantage. i respect the water, only countless mistakes teach me this, and several near death experiences, these days i am cautious.
it's not even 0730 yet and i'm running across pristine sand into the expanse with my fin attached to my hand, that shock of cold is enough to freeze me in my tracks, but i know that the frozen wall must be broken through fast, so i plough myself forwards and leap into the water diving through the first wall of wave.
once your in, the body adjusts fast, we are adaptors after all.
there's no one about, i scan for fins, dolphin or shark i like to know who's out there, no surfers out at all, not like avalon where the surfers live for surf.
out there the conditions are perfect, waves come at me are not to big, but every 20th wave is a monster, and i'm confident enough to dive under once again or if i time it correctly i can ride it, ride it back to the shore.
i catch a few waves, it's very cold outside the water, so i surf for another thirty mins and then get myself into the shower and cleaned up. an old guy looks at my fin, he's never seen anything like it and asks me about it, 'it's what technology should be about instead of mobile phones and bloody tanks,' i say. 
he laughs amazed by it's sexy shape and sleep design, he shows his mates and they all gawk at it.
there's no better way to start the day than surf it, once you catch that first wave and it takes you fast and true, you ride waves all day, sure they may not be wet but they keep coming on land, in experiences everything comes down to waves, you just ride them, let them take you where they will, know when to leave, know when to let them pass over you, know the good waves from the dangerous ones. i'm a surfer, i surf the cosmic skyways, i'm all things to all people but the part that surfs is never going to change. there's nowhere to grow, there's no space to evolve, there's nothing to get hung about, surfing is where its at, the 'fin' is the 'end'.