surfing palm beach, i'm feeling great, the waves are big with velocity, they crash down hard so at the end of the ride you gotta get off the wave lest it throw you onto the sand. it's all feel, you ride that wave until you just feel the bank coming up to meet you and then you gotta spin away from the wave. i'm perfecting this, because one wipe out is enough. 

the day is gorgeous, a woman asks me how i am.

what more can a man ask for i say, this is as good as it gets. 

she swims up to me, it's my sons old teacher mrs. b. she's retired and enjoying a day at the beach. i hear about how she thought jake was an exceptional child, she says he was one in a million and out of all the children she taught he stands out the most. this doesn't surprise me as i know it, jakobs a special kind of spirit, he's got that thing, jesus had it i guess, people just love him, he's very smart and witty but gentle to, yet he has incredible strength and wisdom. i am being objective here, he had it as a baby, it's taken lifetimes but when he arrived i watched and saw it in his eyes straight away.

i tell mrs. b. where he is, what he's doing, she's really happy and swims of. i'm really happy to because this is what i love about being in the surf, magick happens in there, probability lays dormant and incubating and sometimes it just thrusts a minor miracle upon you and a chance meeting like this occurs. 

once at palm beach i was surfing, i went right out by the lighthouse, very remote and sat there waiting for waves, this was when i had a board, now i just fin surf. i'm bobbing up and down and this guy paddles over, he asks me if a wave will come.  hear he has an english accent, 'yeah i say, just wait a while, they usually come in sets.' 

so we wait together and i strike up a conversation, through which we discover that he once worked on my parents house, building an extension to their bathroom, and one day i rang from sydney and he answered the phone. he was on holiday here for a while and just by chance connected with me in the surf.

see that's the kind of stuff that happens to me out there, when your a particle and a wave.