big waves, rolling in, i'm suspended in the deepest blue as they pass over my head, my body dives down under them, it's the smaller ones with the power i like, but every now and then some monster wave rolls in. a few swimmers share a look of horror, these are monsters, two meters plus, that's big for a body surfer like me. some of us make it, we surface out the other side, those that don't are thrown back, washed up along the shore, dumped down by force and power crushing and twisting their flesh into pulp. i skim the next wave, it's fast and furious, swerving through a few bodies, i catch glimpses of the shore as i am propelled through space, i use my had to bring me around before the wave breaks. i spin around and swim out again. i am alive, you ever felt less than alive, the surf will sort you out, you feel defeated every now and then, you feel you need a shot of life force, get thy body in the surf. this is healing on a grand scale, it's a vitamin shot mainlined into the soul, it's a spiritual fix for the broken, seriously, surfing is where it's at, you don't need to be good at it, you don't even need any paraphernalia, just an affinity for some sort of zen experience, leave the body, leave the mind, leave the boundaries and space and time, ride the wave into the sun. 
later i wander through consumer land and find breaking bad series four, a show i adore, so that's me for the weekend, breaking bad.