i've overdosed on sun and surf, my skin burnt black like a native, my body keeps feeling the sensation of being engulfed by waves and i can't really walk on firm surfaces without feeling unsteady. i was born for water but i have to work the land as well, my garden is looking unkept and wild, the big fern needs some attention and care, i may have killed some of its leaves with to much water, i don't really know how to love these plants, i either abandon them, which is when they all thrive or kill em with love whereas the water has no complex demands only that you stay breathing, know where up is and keep those shorts on captain mission, lest we have another embarrassing moment like whale beach 1989 where you made that bee line for the towel, these days i never use towels so the fear of a repeat is ever present. ha, i'm not ashamed of my body, it's looking better than last year, leaner, still carrying a few extra pounds it can loose but generally i don't look so bad, besides its nature, the beasts don't wear clothes or suffer shame, why the fuck should i, social conventions are for social people, i'm not anti social but i wear a contarian badge with honour. 
fuck you if don't approve.
it's been incredibly hot, lovely, i like it, it makes me slow down to a different time flow, i drive slow, i eat slow, i move slow and i talk slow, i like it slower, the pace is natural to my bio rhythm. i was born for the tropical life, coconuts and surfing, wandering around in a sarong, my desire is sated with a groovy wave form, just like an attractive girl, there's an inherent beauty i appreciate about these things and elegant simplicity is in the approach, why make everything complex, intellectualise it all, wrap it with theory, it is what it is, i am what i am, you are what you is. 
people always say, 'let it be' or things like, 'just be' but i don't like to be, i like to do, everything we think is just being, is in fact doing, even the rocks are made up from billions of atoms that are doing, it's not the universal condition to just be, that would be stagnation and death, the universe is doing, so what could be better than surfing in the sun and then creating something beautiful to thank the universe with.