surf conditions are perfect, large waves with enough power to knock you off your feet as they pummel in sets, i get out fast using the rip to pull me out the back of the white messy chop. 
my feet find a sand bank and i use this to launch myself with my fin, oh yes, this is what i was born for. 
while being carried along i align my chakras, it's a new idea i developed as part of my surf yoga exercises. 
you activate all chakras and as you ride visualise a line through them, and channel a white light along it. i go from base up but you could go from crown down, depending on your needs.
the white light should assist you attain a straight posture, use the spinal chord as a guide as you catch the wave and within its energy i open my self, expanding my aura through the world to receive healing or information, or just joy and love. here the aura is a blast exploding outwards or inwards, like a light casting itself unto everything, the body is dissolved.
try it.