dawn surf, water warm, waves perfecto, as they roll in from the beating heart of neptune old captain mission walks out into the solar pathway, there's a strange little pull as the current slips to the side but it's gentle enough for me to deal with, i submerge out there water washing over my head as i dive down. it's so clean you can see thousands of fish and thrusting forwards into the wave my body kicks into autopilot, the fin knows what to do. monique dives down and moves past me, she says some one saw a white pointer out by the boy and she goes to check it out, i find my spot, turn and wait.

after 40 mins there were three waves that were perfect for me to ride, the more force i used to push down the higher i lifted myself, it was pretty wild. they were fast and if i manoeuvred myself to their right i would catch them right until they ht the beach, like an overdrive. amazing.

last night I watched the moon over the water, high tide, this morning it's perfect conditions. and i move forwards  filled with gratitude and praise to jah, who has created all this beauty.