another perfect surf, powerful waves propel me with my fin cutting through, speed king, steering myself, if i wear flippers i will increase the speed by 100% the thought occurs to me, i even have good flippers in the garage, just need to put them in my car. there's no one else out there, me and the sunrise, in water clear enough to see the fish, they dart around me as i watch them with one eye on the horizon, the land curves around to a point in the north, the coastline of australia, i wonder what a voyage would be like, circumnavigating the whole country, how lovely, surfing beaches, staying in little beach towns. 
but i'm here, terrible beach, where the surf is perfect.
the last week i managed to surf myself to exhaustion, do the 24 hour crash, my body to weak to move from home, i can't even lift myself to answer the phone. i get the caffeine shakes as i cold turkey, sleep through the day, night, then back in the surf. 
it's shifted, small choppy waves, difficult to catch, i practice my underwater swimming,small lung capacity puts me at a disadvantage but i can negotiate a wave. 
the beach is covered in pumice stones, some volcanic activity out there. the water is so warm, bath like. 

i read two books, 'the last policeman' by ben winters. it's okay, the premise is interesting, 6 moths before a huge rock smashes into the earth and destroys all life a detective investigates what appears to be a suicide. under the circumstances suicides are part of the norm, a population dealing with the terrible inevitable circumstances in their own way, this forms the background that gradually becomes as fascinating as the main plot.

then it's the 'cambodian book of the dead' by tom vater, a german detective looking for a heir to a coffee empire in darkest khmer. this was a harrowing read, an education into the atrocities of the pol pot regime and the communist experiment of the khmer rouge. brilliantly written fast paced with some excellently well thought out characters including the terrifying villain, the white spider.