perfect wave at terrible beach, it was really something wonderful to feel that slight tingle of cold as it lapped around my knees and then that walk into its deep penetrating surface, how i stretched out and dived in, shock and fast fade. 
i get the beautiful waves, they are bigger this morning, the effects of some kind of butterfly effect in northern australia, but here the wave manifests as a butterfly wing, perfect flow. i catch some but its not surfing that motivates me, it's just a kind of silly childish wonder at being in such a strangely familiar element, splashing around like a boy, haven't felt like that for ages. 
later i walk out across a perfect sandy beach, up to the shower and i feel the sunshine upon my skin, it's feeding me. 
i read the news, it's all bad shit, coming at ya from all angles, left right, all the fucking same, don't buy the goods man. they all work for the same man. who cares who it is, he's a bad energy dude, sucking up hope like an evil pope.
i drive along the road, enjoying the cruise, watching the homes, people walking early in the morning, it's a slow drive, soaking up the morning with my organic eye. i buy some grapes from a fruit shop, black ones. i get home and make my fruity drink, i feed the hound, the fish and wait for something to happen but nothing does. i fall into a dream about surfing.